Lowering Blocks with Fitting Position Rear Axle

Nolathane lowering blocks are the simplest way to bring down the rear ride height of a leaf sprung vehicle. Fitted between the leaf spring and the axle, a lowering block repositions the axle relative to the spring pack, so the body sits lower without changing the springs, shock absorbers or chassis mounts.

Each lowering block kit is made in aluminium and supplied with the U-bolts, washers and nuts needed to clamp the axle securely. Whether you?re levelling a pick-up that sits tail-high when empty, dropping a van for a cleaner stance or setting up a classic with the look it deserves, the right kit delivers a predictable drop that?s quick to fit and easy to reverse.

How Lowering Blocks Work

On many leaf sprung vehicles the axle sits on top of the spring pack, held in place by U-bolts that wrap around the axle tube and clamp through a plate beneath the spring. The spring?s centre bolt engages a locating hole in the axle?s spring seat, so the axle can?t shift forwards or backwards on the spring.

A lowering block slots in between the spring and the spring seat. It carries its own locating pin on top and a matching hole underneath, so the original relationship between axle and spring is kept. Because the axle now sits higher on the spring by the height of the block, the body drops by roughly the same amount at the wheel.

The spring rate, the spring?s arch and the load it carries don?t change. That?s why a block lowers the vehicle while keeping the factory ride character, something lowered or re-set leaf springs can?t always do.

Vehicles Suited to Lowering Blocks

Lowering blocks for leaf springs suit rear suspensions where the axle sits on top of the spring pack. That includes many two-wheel-drive pick-ups, light commercial vans, and older passenger cars and classics with a leaf sprung rear axle. Some 4WD and 4x4 pick-ups use the same layout, though lowering is far less common on vehicles built for ground clearance.

Where the spring is mounted on top of the axle, the same block would raise the vehicle rather than lower it, so the mounting layout must match. Coil sprung, independent and torsion bar rear suspensions need a different approach altogether. Each listing confirms which vehicles a kit suits, along with the dimensions needed to check a universal fit.

Benefits of Lowering Blocks

• A lower, more level stance, particularly on pick-ups that sit nose-down from the factory to allow for load
• A lower centre of gravity, which reduces body roll and helps the vehicle feel more settled through corners
• A cost-effective rear height change without replacing springs or shock absorbers
• Straightforward fitting with common workshop tools, and the option to return to standard height later
• Aluminium construction that?s light and resists corrosion from road spray and moisture

Trade-Offs to Plan For

Lowering any vehicle involves compromises, and being clear about them up front saves surprises later.

Suspension travel is reduced before the axle reaches the bump stop, so a lowered rear can bottom out sooner over dips or with weight in the tray. Shorter or trimmed bump stops are sometimes used to recover travel, but this needs care to protect the axle, springs and body.

Clearance shrinks between the tyre and the wheel arch, and between the axle, tailshaft (driveshaft or propshaft), exhaust and chassis. Check these at full compression rather than at rest.

Tailshaft angles change with ride height. Small drops are usually fine, but larger ones can introduce driveline vibration, so check the pinion angle after fitting.

A taller block also lengthens the lever between spring and axle, which can increase axle wrap under hard acceleration or braking. That?s why one solid lowering block of the right height is always preferable, and why blocks should never be stacked.

Lowering doesn?t change the vehicle?s rated carrying or towing capacity, but it does leave less margin before bump stop contact, so plan for how the vehicle will be loaded.

Choosing the Right Lowering Block Kit

Three measurements decide whether a kit will fit, and each listing shows all of them.

Block Height

Block height sets how far the rear will drop. Heights are usually quoted in inches, with the millimetre figure alongside. Choose the smallest drop that achieves the stance you want, since every extra increment adds to the trade-offs above.

Locating Pin and Hole Size

The pin on top of the block must match the hole in the axle?s spring seat, and the hole underneath must accept the head of the spring?s centre bolt. Measure both before ordering, especially on older vehicles where the springs may have been replaced.

U-Bolt Diameter and Length

Fitting a block means the U-bolts must reach further, so kits include longer U-bolts. Check that the diameter suits the axle?s clamp plate and that the length gives full thread engagement on the nut.

Our fitment guarantee means the kit you order for your vehicle is confirmed to suit it, so there?s no guesswork.

Fitting Lowering Blocks

Fitting suits professional workshops and experienced home mechanics. As a general guide:

1. Support the vehicle securely on stands under the chassis, with the axle supported by a jack.
2. Work on one side at a time so the axle stays located on the other spring.
3. Remove the old U-bolts, lower the axle slightly, and fit the block with its pin seated in the spring seat and the spring?s centre bolt seated in the block.
4. Fit the new U-bolts, washers and nuts, and tighten evenly in a crossing pattern so the axle clamps down square.
5. Torque to the vehicle manufacturer?s specification, repeat on the other side, then lower the vehicle onto its wheels.
6. Re-check U-bolt torque after the first short drive and again after the first few hundred kilometres, as spring packs settle.

Never reuse old U-bolts. They stretch when tightened and won?t clamp reliably a second time. If the axle has moved or a spring centre bolt has been disturbed, check that the axle sits square and have the wheel alignment (tracking) checked, as a skewed axle makes the vehicle crab and wear tyres unevenly.

Pairing Lowering Blocks With Polyurethane Bushes

With the U-bolts off and the springs unloaded, it?s the ideal time to inspect the leaf spring eye and shackle bushes. Worn rubber lets the axle shift under load, which undermines the controlled drop the blocks provide.

Nolathane has been making polyurethane suspension bushings since 1974, originally to replace brass bushes in hillclimb competition. Today the signature red bushings are made in a range of durometers (hardness grades) selected for each position. They?re mechanically fitted with minimal crush and a lubricated centre sleeve, so the spring pivots freely rather than twisting against bonded rubber. Outstanding abrasion resistance, high load-bearing capability and resistance to oil, grease, ozone and weathering suit pick-ups, vans and towing vehicles that work hard, and help keep a lowered rear end tight and predictable.

Lowering Blocks and Vehicle Standards

Rules on lowering vary between jurisdictions. In Europe, modifications may be assessed at periodic roadworthiness inspections. Some rules also restrict lowering blocks on particular vehicle types. Check the requirements where your vehicle is registered before fitting, and tell your insurer about any change to ride height. Re-aim the headlights afterwards too, as a lower rear tilts the beam upward.

Shop Lowering Blocks

Lowering blocks belong to our suspension parts range.

Find the lowering block kit for your vehicle, then order online with fast shipping or have it fitted by a Nolathane reseller. If a kit isn?t right, 60-day returns give you time to sort it out, and our local support team can help whether you?re repairing a sagging rear end, replacing worn components or lowering for a better stance.