Strut Rod Bushing with Fitting Position Front

Nolathane strut rod bushings hold the lower control arm in place fore and aft, which keeps the front wheels steady when you brake. Each strut rod bushing cushions the rod where it meets the chassis, and on some designs where it meets the arm. When the bushings soften or split, the arm shifts every time you brake, and caster changes with it.

Strut rod bushings suit classic and RWD cars, performance vehicles, and 4WD trucks that use tension rods to locate the front suspension. Each listing shows the position, the bushing design, and the vehicles each kit fits.

The Strut Rod?s Job

On many independent front ends, the lower control arm attaches to the chassis at a single inner pivot. That pivot controls how the arm moves up and down, but on its own it does little to stop the arm moving forward or backward.

The strut rod handles that job. Also called a tension rod or radius rod, it runs at an angle from the lower control arm to a bracket on the chassis. On many vehicles it?s the only part holding the arm?s fore-aft position, so it takes the full load of braking, acceleration, and every bump that pushes the wheel rearward.

Some RWD layouts also use strut rods at the rear, where they locate the rear suspension in a similar way. The bushings at either end of the rod are what keep it firmly in place.

Strut Rod Bushing Layout

Strut rod bushings follow a common layout on most vehicles. Picture it from the chassis end:

• The rod passes through a hole in the chassis bracket
• One bushing half sits on the front face of the bracket, and another sits on the rear face
• A cup washer sits on the outside of each bushing half
• A nut on the threaded end of the rod clamps the whole stack together

This clamps the bracket between two cushions, so the rod can flex slightly as the suspension moves while staying firmly located. On some designs, the other end of the rod also has a bushing where it bolts to the lower control arm.

Bushing Designs

Strut rod bushings come in a few designs, depending on how the rod is mounted.

Two-Piece Chassis Bushings

The most common design uses two separate halves, one on each side of the chassis bracket. They work together with the cup washers to clamp the bracket. Fitting them in the right order matters, because a misplaced washer or reversed half won?t hold the rod properly.

One-Piece Bushings

Some vehicles use a single bushing pressed into the bracket or rod end. One-piece designs locate the rod through the bushing itself, without a separate clamping stack.

Arm-End and Combined Strut and Control Arm Sets

Where the rod also bushes into the lower control arm, a separate arm-end bushing is needed. Combined sets include both strut rod and control arm bushings, which makes sense when all of them are worn and the arm is coming off anyway.

Caster Stability Under Braking

Caster is the backward tilt of the steering axis. It gives the steering its self-centering feel and helps the car track straight.

When you brake hard, the tire tries to drag the wheel rearward. A firm strut rod bushing holds the lower control arm in place against that force. A soft or worn bushing lets the arm move back, which changes the angle of the steering axis and reduces caster for that moment.

The effects show up quickly. The front end dives more under braking, the car may pull to one side if one bushing is worse than the other, and it can wander at speed. Steering also returns to center less crisply, because the caster that normally does that job keeps shifting.

Signs of Worn Strut Rod Bushings

Worn strut rod bushings tend to show their age under braking and acceleration. Watch for:

• A clunk from the front end as you brake or pull away
• The steering pulling to one side under braking
• Wander or a vague feel at highway speeds
• Cracked or split bushing halves, or a rod sitting off-center in its bracket
• An alignment that won?t hold caster setting

If one side clunks and the other doesn?t, both still need checking. Bushings wear at a similar rate, and replacing one side leaves the front end unbalanced.

Rubber and Polyurethane Strut Rod Bushings

Factory rubber bushings are designed for comfort, but they flex a lot under braking loads. As they age, they soften, crack, and allow even more movement.

Polyurethane strut rod bushings keep the rod firmly located under heavy braking. They resist abrasion and hold up to oil, grease, ozone, and weathering, so they last well in the harsh conditions at the front of the vehicle. The hardness, or durometer, is chosen to resist the strong fore-aft loads at this position while still allowing the small movement the rod needs. Nolathane?s signature red bushings are easy to recognize when you?re checking the front end.

The trade-off is a little more road feel, as polyurethane passes slightly more vibration than soft rubber.

Choosing Strut Rod Bushings

Picking the right kit comes down to a few checks. Each listing shows the position, design, and vehicles it fits.

Front or Rear Position

Most strut rod bushings are at the front, but some RWD vehicles have rear strut rods too. Confirm which end of the vehicle you?re working on.

Chassis End, Arm End or Combined Set

Decide whether you need just the chassis bushings, the arm-end bushing, or a combined set with the control arm bushings.

Drivetrain Variant

RWD and 4WD versions of the same vehicle often use different bushing profiles. Check your drivetrain before ordering.

Replacing Strut Rod Bushings

Because strut rod bushings affect braking stability, a qualified installer is the safest choice. The general process looks like this:

• Support the vehicle safely with the suspension at ride height
• Mark the position of the rod nut before loosening it, since on some designs nut position affects caster
• Remove the nut, cup washers, and old bushings, then remove the rod
• Fit the new bushing halves and cup washers in the correct order
• Grease the bushings with a polyurethane-safe lubricant
• Refit the rod and tighten it to specification at ride height, using new nuts where specified
• Have a full wheel alignment carried out

Check the torque again after the first few hundred miles of driving.

Limitations and Trade-Offs

Strut rod bushings fix a lot of braking and steering complaints, but they have limits:

• Polyurethane transmits slightly more road noise and vibration than rubber
• It can squeak if it isn?t greased
• New bushings can?t fix a bent rod, a cracked bracket, or worn control arm bushings and ball joints
• A wheel alignment is always needed after replacement

Compliance and Insurance

Make sure the vehicle meets the inspection requirements of the state where it?s registered, and let your insurance company know about any suspension modifications.

Warranty and Support

Nolathane strut rod bushings carry a lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects in material and workmanship, for the original vehicle. If you?re not sure which kit suits your vehicle, our local support team can help.

Shop Strut Rod Bushings

You'll find strut rod bushings in our polyurethane bushings selection, and the control arm bushings on the same arm are worth doing at the same time.

Find the strut rod bushings for your vehicle and order online with fast shipping. Every kit is covered by our warranty and fitment guarantee.