Control Arms for FPV GS

A control arm is the hinged link between the chassis and the hub carrying each wheel on your FPV GS. It pivots on bushes at the chassis end, connects to the hub through a ball joint at the other, and its job is to let the wheel travel up and down while holding it exactly where the wheel alignment says it should be.

Because the arm is a lever, whatever movement it allows gets multiplied by the time it reaches the tyre. Very little else under the vehicle has as much say in where your wheels are pointed.

What a Control Arm Does and Why Worn Ones Move Your FPV GS Alignment

Springs carry the weight and dampers control the movement. The control arm decides the geometry while that happens.

Every time you brake, the wheel is being pushed rearward. Every time you turn, it is being loaded sideways. The arm resists both while still swinging freely through its travel, and it does that through two very different joints. The control arm bushes at the inboard end allow rotation on one axis while resisting movement on the others, and the ball joint at the outboard end lets the hub pivot in every direction so the wheel can steer and travel at the same time.

A small amount of play at either end of a car control arm becomes a much larger amount of movement at the contact patch. That is why a tired control arm shows up as vague steering and uneven tyre wear well before anything looks obviously broken, and why a vehicle can measure perfectly on the alignment rack and still wander on the road.

Upper and Lower Control Arms and Which Your FPV GS Uses

Which arms your FPV GS has depends on the front end design, and it changes what wears out first.

A strut suspension typically uses a single lower control arm per side, with the strut locating the top of the hub. That makes the front lower control arm responsible for all of the positioning work, and it carries the lower control arm ball joint as well, so it takes the heaviest loads of anything down there.

A double wishbone layout uses an upper control arm and a lower one together, which gives finer control over how camber changes through travel. The two wear at different rates, so upper control arm bushes and lower ones are rarely due at the same time. You will see wishbone suspension used interchangeably with double wishbone, and the arms themselves called wishbones or A-arms depending on their shape.

At the rear, control arms turn up as lateral arms, camber arms, toe arms and trailing arms depending on what each one is holding. A rear control arm does a related job to a front one, but the parts are not interchangeable and neither are the symptoms.

FPV GS Control Arm Bushes or a Complete Control Arm

This is the question worth answering before you spend anything, because the cheaper option is frequently the right one.

Control arm bushes are the wear item on most vehicles. Factory rubber is chosen for quietness rather than control, so it deflects under load even when new, then perishes, cracks and separates from its sleeve with age. Fresh front control arm bushings or rear bushes remove that deflection and stop the geometry wandering while you drive, which is usually the difference people actually feel.

Replace the bushes alone when the arm is straight, the mounting eyes are round, the ball joint is still tight and the ride height has not changed. That covers most vehicles that come in with a clunk, and it is the cheapest route by a wide margin.

Buy the complete arm instead when both ends are due, when the arm is bent or corroded, when a mounting eye has worn oval and will no longer hold a bush, or when the ball joint is pressed into the arm and has failed.

The arm has to come off the vehicle for either job, so the labour is much the same. Once more than one thing on an arm is due, a complete arm frequently works out better value than rebuilding it.

How to Tell a Bent FPV GS Control Arm From a Worn One

This is the diagnosis people miss, and it costs them money in parts that were never going to fix the problem.

Worn bushes and joints develop gradually and give warning. A bent arm happens in a moment, usually from a pothole or a kerb, and gives none at all. A few millimetres of deflection in a forged or pressed arm looks like nothing and completely changes where that wheel sits.

What you get is an alignment the workshop cannot bring into specification, one side reading differently from the other with no worn components to explain it, and tyre wear that returns no matter how many times it is corrected. New bushes will not fix it and neither will a new ball joint, because the problem is the distance between the two ends of the arm rather than the condition of either one.

If the vehicle hit something hard and the alignment has never been right since, measure the arms against each other before ordering wear parts.

Symptoms of a Worn FPV GS Control Arm

• A dull clunk or thud from the front over bumps, driveways and speed humps
• Clunking that appears when the wheel is turned and loaded, which points at the ball joint
• Steering that feels vague, wanders, or needs constant correction
• The vehicle pulling to one side under braking
• Shudder or vibration through the wheel when braking from speed
• Uneven tyre wear, most often on the inside edge
• An alignment that will not hold specification between services
• Visible cracking, splitting or separation in the control arm bushing material
• A torn ball joint boot, or grease thrown around the inside of the wheel
• A roadworthy or inspection report listing play at the control arm

The noise is usually the last symptom to arrive rather than the first, which is why the tyres have often already paid for it by the time anyone investigates.

When FPV GS Factory Control Arms Run Out of Adjustment

Manufacturers build in just enough adjustment to correct production tolerances and not a millimetre more, which is fine on a standard vehicle at standard height.

Lower the vehicle and the arms swing through a different part of their arc, so camber goes negative and toe follows it. Raise it and the same thing happens in the opposite direction, with caster washing off as the geometry rotates. On plenty of platforms the result is an alignment outside specification with nothing actually worn.

At that point the workshop has nothing left to work with, because the numbers are out of range and something has to physically move a mounting point before the machine can do anything about it. That is what offset bushes and correction arms are for, and it is why they are not a luxury on a modified vehicle.

FPV GS Control Arm Replacement Cost and Where the Money Goes

Control arm replacement cost is dominated by labour rather than parts, and understanding that helps you spend less on it.

The arm comes off the vehicle whichever route you take, so the teardown is identical whether you are pressing in bushes, changing a ball joint or fitting a complete arm. That is why doing everything on an arm at once makes sense, and why replacing bushes during any other front end work costs almost nothing extra.

A wheel alignment afterward is not optional, since removing play changes camber and toe the moment the vehicle sits back down. Build it into whatever you are budgeting rather than treating it as a surprise at the end.

When comparing quotes, the three numbers that explain almost all of the difference are how many arms are being done, whether complete arms or component repairs are being quoted, and whether the alignment is included in the price.

Separating Ball Joints and Torquing FPV GS Control Arms at Ride Height

A complete arm bolts into the factory mounting locations and arrives assembled, which is the main reason to buy the arm rather than the pieces.

Support the vehicle properly and take the load off the suspension before separating a ball joint, because a joint under spring load releases suddenly and without warning. Use a proper separator rather than a hammer, which damages the hub bore and the stud threads.

Where you are pressing bushes instead, use a correct diameter press tool and check the mounting eye once the old bush is out, since a bore worn oval will not hold a new bush and means the arm itself needs replacing.

Do both sides where the wear is age related, because a new arm working against a tired one leaves the front end with different amounts of compliance left to right.

Torque the inner fasteners with the vehicle on its wheels at ride height rather than hanging at full droop. Whatever position a bush is clamped in becomes its neutral position, so an arm torqued at droop spends its life twisted and binds from the first kilometre. This is the most common mistake made on control arm work and it costs nothing at all to avoid.

Fit a new split pin to the ball joint castle nut rather than reusing the old one, and book the wheel alignment for the same visit.

Find Control Arms for Your FPV GS

Control arms are one part of our suspension arms range.

Select your FPV GS to see the control arms, arm kits and control arm bush kits available for it, and check each listing for the side and position it suits along with whether a ball joint is included. Every Nolathane component is backed by our warranty, a fitment guarantee and 60 day returns.