NOLATHANE Grease

Nolathane suspension grease is a polyurethane-safe grease for fitting and servicing suspension bushings, greasable pins and other pivot points. Whether you grease suspension parts once at installation or keep them serviced for years, the right grease keeps the suspension quiet, stops parts from binding, and protects the surfaces that move against each other every time a wheel goes over a bump.

The range is designed for workshops and owners who maintain polyurethane-bushed suspension on trucks, 4x4s, SUVs and cars, and it comes in pack sizes to suit a single fitting or ongoing shop use. Each listing shows the pack size.

Suspension Points That Need Grease

A modern suspension has dozens of pivot points, but only some of them are designed to be greased. Knowing which ones matter saves time and stops you from adding grease where it can do harm.

• Polyurethane bushings. Unlike bonded rubber, polyurethane bushings rotate on their inner sleeves and against their flanges. Every one of those sliding surfaces needs a coat of compatible grease, or the bushing will squeak and wear.
• Greasable shackle and spring pins. On leaf spring suspension, the shackle pins and spring eye pins carry the full weight of the vehicle while the spring flexes. Pins with a grease fitting are built to be re-greased regularly.
• Sway bar mount bushings. The sway bar twists inside its mount bushings every time one wheel moves more than the other. These bushings see constant movement, so they?re usually the first point on a vehicle to dry out and squeak.
• Control arm and trailing arm bushings. Where these are polyurethane, they pivot through the full range of suspension travel and depend on grease to move freely.
• Tie rod ends and ball joints with grease fittings. Serviceable steering and suspension joints need chassis lube as specified by the joint?s maker. Check the specification before using a polyurethane grease on them.

Points That Shouldn?t Be Greased

Grease in the wrong place can cause more problems than it solves.

• Bonded rubber bushings. These are bonded to their sleeves and twist instead of rotating. Grease gives them no benefit, and some petroleum-based greases can soften the rubber over time.
• Dry-running or self-lubricating bushings. Some bushings use materials designed to run without grease. Adding grease to them can trap dust and grit, which wears them faster.
• Sealed-for-life joints. Joints with no grease fitting and a sealed boot are designed to run on their factory fill. Forcing grease past the seal can split the boot.
• Brake components. Keep all suspension grease away from brake pads, rotors, drums and shoes. Even a small amount on a friction surface seriously reduces braking. If grease gets onto a brake part, clean it with brake cleaner before driving.

When in doubt, follow the part maker?s lubrication instructions.

How to Grease a Suspension

Greasing a suspension is a straightforward maintenance job, but doing it carefully makes a big difference to how long the parts last.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Use a hoist or jack stands on solid ground, never a jack alone. On some vehicles, it?s easier to reach the fittings with the suspension hanging, while others are easier at ride height.
2. Find every grease point. Work methodically from one corner to the next, so nothing gets missed. Shackle pins, spring pins, steering joints and some driveline parts may all have fittings.
3. Clean each fitting. Wipe the grease fitting with a clean rag before connecting the grease gun. Any dirt on the fitting will be pushed straight into the joint.
4. Pump in grease until fresh grease appears. Apply grease steadily until clean grease starts to show at the edge of the bushing or joint. That tells you the old, contaminated grease has been pushed out.
5. Wipe off the excess. Grease left on the outside of a joint collects road grit, which eventually works its way back in.
6. Check for fittings that won?t take grease. A blocked fitting can sometimes be cleared, or it may need replacing. Don?t force grease through, because high pressure can damage seals and bushings.

Polyurethane bushings without grease fittings are greased at installation. To re-grease them during service, remove the bolt or sleeve, clean away the old grease and any grit, apply fresh grease, and refit the bushing, torquing the fasteners to specification. The Bushing Grease page covers exactly where to apply it on each type of bushing.

Greasable Pins and Zerk Fittings

A greasable pin has a grease fitting, often called a zerk, at one end and a drilled passage running through its center. Small cross-drillings carry the grease out to the bushing surfaces.

When you pump grease into the zerk, it flows through the pin and spreads across the inside of the bushing. That lets you re-lubricate polyurethane shackle and spring bushings without taking anything apart, which turns a disassembly job into a few minutes with a grease gun.

Greasable pins are especially useful on work trucks, 4x4s and trailers that see mud, water and heavy loads, because those conditions wash grease out faster. Always use a polyurethane-safe grease in these pins, so the fresh grease doesn?t harm the bushings it?s meant to protect.

Sachets and Workshop Packs

Suspension grease comes in different pack sizes, and choosing the right one avoids waste.

A single-job sachet holds enough grease to fit one set of bushings. It?s the simplest choice for a DIY fitting, because you open it at the job and use it up, with no leftover grease collecting dust in the garage.

Larger workshop packs suit shops that fit bushings every day, and owners who service a vehicle regularly with a grease gun. Buying in a larger pack means there?s always grease on hand when a squeak shows up. Each listing shows the pack size.

Service Intervals and Squeak Prevention

The simplest approach is to re-grease the suspension as part of every routine service, alongside the oil change and tire rotation. Some conditions call for extra attention:

• Off-road driving. Water crossings and deep mud can wash grease out of bushings and pins. Re-grease afterward.
• Pressure washing. A pressure washer aimed at the underside can force water past seals and strip out grease. Re-grease greasable points after a heavy wash.
• Winter roads. Road salt and slush are hard on suspension parts. A service in spring removes contaminated grease before it causes wear.
• Heavy loads and towing. Higher loads squeeze grease out of the bushing surfaces faster, so check them more often.

A new squeak from the suspension usually means a bushing or pin has run dry. Re-greasing it promptly stops the noise and prevents the wear that comes from metal and polyurethane rubbing without lubrication.

Storing Suspension Grease

Grease that?s stored badly can carry dirt into every joint you service. Keep containers sealed when not in use, and store them away from heat and direct sunlight, which can separate the grease. Keep the nozzle of your grease gun clean, and never leave an open tub where grit or metal shavings can fall in.

Limitations and Trade-Offs

• Grease can?t fix worn, split or wrong-sized bushings. If a bushing still squeaks or moves after greasing, inspect it for wear.
• Too much grease attracts grit, which can wear the surfaces it?s meant to protect.
• Grease doesn?t change ride or handling. It reduces noise and wear.
• Always follow the part maker?s lubrication instructions, especially for steering joints.

Shop Grease

If you have questions about which points to grease, how often to service them, or which pack size suits your work, our local support team can help.

Grease sits in our universal auto parts selection for general chassis and fitting work.

Find the right suspension grease for your fitting or service work, and order online with fast shipping.